Dear CF,
As temperatures this summer soar into the triple digits, making sure our pets don’t overheat is critical. As you know, dogs can’t cool off by sweating like we do. They use panting as their primary means of thermoregulation, a much less efficient method. So here are some tips to help keep our canines cool:

• Avoid the hottest parts of the day—walk early in the morning or late in the evening
• Walk your dog on grass or dirt which is cooler than concrete or asphalt
• Acclimate your pet to the heat and humidity before allowing them to exert themselves
• Bring your dog into the air conditioning!
• If your dog has to be outside, make sure he has shade
• Provide ventilation (such as a fan, as long as it’s safely protected from a curious pet)
• Steer clear of crowded summer festivals—the combination of excitement, exercise and hot pavement might be too much for your pet
• Always, always have fresh, cool water available—try putting some ice cubes in it!
• Never, never leave a dog unattended for any length of time in a vehicle on a warm day

Dogs that get too warm suffer from heat exhaustion first, then heat stroke. Both are considered emergencies that require quick action at home and an even quicker visit to the veterinary clinic. The signs of heat exhaustion are heavy panting, increased salivation then a dry mouth, weakness, confusion or inattention, and vomiting or diarrhea. If the condition progresses to heat stroke, the gums become pale or gray, breathing becomes shallow, vomiting and diarrhea may worsen and become bloody, and seizures, coma and even death may follow.

Knowing normal for your dog and keeping a close eye on him when it’s hot are key to recognizing a dog in distress. Remember that the very young and the very old are even less able to control their body temperatures so pay particular attention to puppies and seniors.

Dear ER,

To help answer your question, I turned to the American Heartworm Society (www.heartwormsociety.org), an excellent resource for questions about the diagnosis, treatment and prevention of heartworm disease. According to the AHS, there are a couple of reasons why an annual heartworm test is a good idea. First, there have been situations where dogs looked perfectly healthy on the outside but were actually harboring heartworms on the inside. Giving monthly preventative to some of these dogs caused severe reactions. Second, an undiagnosed heartworm infection causes permanent damage to your dog the longer it’s there so the quicker it’s diagnosed the quicker it can be treated. Giving monthly preventive doesn’t treat the adult heartworms living in the heart, lungs and blood vessels of your dog. And third–let’s admit it–there will be the occasional time your dog doesn’t get his fully monthly dose (you forgot to give it, he threw it right back up, etc.) so an annual test just makes sure some heartworms didn’t slip through the gap.

Here are a couple of the American Heartworm Society’s questions and answers on this topic:

Q: Why do dogs need to be blood tested before starting heartworm medication?
A: Before starting a preventive program, all dogs should be tested for heartworms. Giving preventives to dogs that have adult heartworm infection can be harmful or even fatal to the pet.
Adult heartworms produce millions of microscopic “baby” heartworms (called microfilaria) into the bloodstream. When you give a monthly heartworm preventive to a dog with circulating microfilaria, this can cause the sudden death of microfilaria, triggering a shock-type reaction. Even if your dog does not have this type of reaction, heartworm preventives do not kill the adult heartworms (although they may shorten the worms’ life expectancy). This means an infected dog will remain infected with adult heartworms.
Unfortunately, as long as a pet remains infected, heartworm disease will progress and damage the heart and lungs, which can lead to life threatening problems. Giving heartworm preventives to heartworm-positive dogs can mislead an owner into thinking everything is all right, while within a pet, heartworm disease is worsening.

Q: How often should I have my dog tested for heartworm infection?
A: Annual testing is recommended for several important reasons. First, many of us do not take our own medications as directed let alone medicate our pets. We’re busy; we forget; we miss a dose here and there. Second, even if you never miss a dose there is nothing to prevent your dog from eating some grass and vomiting up the medication you just gave. Your pet would be without protection for an entire month. Third, if your pet accidentally became infected with heartworms, your veterinarian needs to detect it as soon as possible before irreversible heart and lung damage occur. Early detection and treatment are always best. Finally, some heartworm tests now come combined with tests that monitor other significant diseases (Lyme disease, Ehrlichiosis and Anaplasmosis). With annual testing, you know your pet is heartworm free and not infected with these serious tick-borne diseases, some of which could affect family members. The tests are quick and accurate and make sure your pet is free from infection. Annual testing provides peace of mind in knowing that your pet is free of heartworms, and should your pet be infected, it assures you of early diagnosis.

Q: Do you need a prescription for heartworm preventive medication? If so, why?
A: Yes, heartworm preventives must be purchased from your veterinarian or with a prescription through a pet pharmacy. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) labeling on heartworm preventives indicates that the medication is to be used by or on the order of a licensed veterinarian. This means a veterinarian must have a doctor-client-patient relationship in order to write a prescription. Typically, prior to prescribing a heartworm preventive, the veterinarian will perform a simple heartworm test to make sure your dog doesn’t already have adult heartworms. It is not necessary to test very young puppies prior to starting preventives since it takes approximately six months for adult heartworms to develop to adulthood in a dog. If the pet is free of heartworms, prevention is prescribed. Giving preventives to dogs infected with heartworms can lead to rare but possibly severe reactions that could be harmful or even fatal to the dog.

Dear GD,

I’m sure sorry to hear that your dog has cancer. Hopefully the supplement and nutritional advice I give you here not only helps improve his quality of life but also extends that life.

Every form of cancer in people and animals is different and has its own chemistry, rate of growing, tissue preference, etc. The characteristics of the most common form of cancer in dogs, lymphoma, has been extensively studied. Research has shown that a diet high in protein, high in fat, and low in carbohydrates “starves” the cancer but feeds the body. The therapeutic food n/d by Hill’s (Neoplasia Diet) has been specifically formulated to supply the ideal ratios of these nutrients. It also contains high amounts of Arginine, an essential amino acid that may have some specific therapeutic value in dogs with cancer. Veterinarians also recommend non-therapeutic brands with these same characteristics, such as no or low-grain brands or even puppy foods.

As far as supplements, Glutamine is another amino acid that may be beneficial for dogs with cancer as it supports the immune system, the GI tract and may even help prevent weight loss. However another category of supplements, the Omega-3 fatty acids, may be even more helpful for dogs with cancer. Long touted for their anti-inflammatory properties, scientists have shown that Omega-3 fatty acids (especially EPA and DHA) may decrease the destruction caused by cancer and help the body maintain weight and muscle mass.

If your dog will be undergoing chemotherapy, you may want to provide additional support with ginger, peppermint or other ingredients for nausea and vomiting. Pre- and probiotics are also good choices to maintain a healthy GI tract. Milk thistle and SAMe support the liver (which is doing the bulk of the chemical detoxifying) while CoQ10 supports other tissues. B-vitamins may encourage your dog to continue eating and maintain his strength.

There is controversy over the use of antioxidants such as Vitamin E, Se, Vitamin C, alpha lipoic acid and others. When dogs are undergoing chemotherapy, some experts feel these ingredients actually protect the cancer cells from being killed. However, it’s probably okay to supplement antioxidants during times when the dog is NOT being treated.

There are many other ingredients that are being used in the spirit of preventing or treating cancer, or in managing the side effects of cancer or its treatment, but there’s very little safety or efficacy research on them. Therefore they are best used only on the advice of a veterinarian knowledgeable in the field.

Dear RS,

Diabetes mellitus or “sugar diabetes” is defined by the Merck Veterinary Manual as a chronic disorder of carbohydrate metabolism due to relative or absolute insulin deficiency. What this means is that your dog’s pancreas doesn’t make insulin (or the insulin he does make isn’t used properly) so the concentration of sugar, or glucose, in his blood gets too high and leads to problems. What we see on the outside is excessive thirst, frequent urination and lethargy. Managing diabetes in a pet can be challenging, so carefully follow the program your veterinarian recommended of diet, exercise, insulin administration, home monitoring and regular checkups.

When it comes to diet, most experts recommend foods low in simple carbohydrates (simple sugars) and fats, and moderate in protein and complex carbohydrates (fiber). “Moderate” protein is 15-25% of the diet on a dry matter (DM) basis. When it comes to complex carbs, you’re aiming for 50-55% of the diet (specifically fiber should be 8 – 17% of the diet and made up of a mixture of soluble and insoluble fibers)

Soluble fibers include fruit pectin, citrus pulp, guar gum, soy fiber
Insoluble fibers include beet pulp, cellulose, corn bran, pea fiber, peanut hulls, rice bran, soy hulls, sunflower hulls, wheat bran, wheat middlings

The idea behind complex carbohydrates (fiber) is to stabilize blood sugar by slowing its absorption from the GI tract. This keeps your dog feeling full plus avoids peaks and swings in blood sugar. You didn’t mention if your dog is the kind of diabetic that needs to lose weight or gain weight, but a high fiber diet measured and fed at the same time(s), such as in PortionPaks, will go a long way to bringing him to his ideal weight regardless of where he is now.

Check with your veterinarian to see if it’s okay to provide between-meal snacks and if so, make sure these are low in simple sugars too, whether they’re people food or dog food. And don’t forget that your dog’s exercise routine should be as regular and consistent as his food and insulin shots, to avoid fluctuations in blood sugar.

I hope this information helps you select a good-quality food that your dog likes and that aids in regulating his diabetes. Good luck!

Dear SW,

While it sounds like it’s fine in your case to give your dog milk, in my opinion three cups a day is a bit much. Most dogs (and cats) lose the ability to digest dairy products after weaning so offering milk, cheese, even yogurt can result in problems like you mention: diarrhea, vomiting (or flatulence). Yours still seems to have the enzymes needed to break down the lactose sugar in milk so that these problems aren’t occurring.

However, three cups seems a bit excessive. The rule of thumb for the amount of water a dog drinks per day is 1 ounce per pound body weight. You have a Brittany Spaniel that the AKC says should weigh between 30 and 40 pounds so he should be drinking about 30 to 40 ounces (four to five cups) of water daily. So three cups of milk is more than half of his total fluid intake. I would like to see him drink more plain water than milk.

I also looked up the nutrient profile of 2% milk. Each cup has 137 calories so three cups has 411 calories. A 30 to 40 pound dog only needs about 600 to 800 calories from its food each day, so you’re also supplying over half your dog’s daily caloric requirements with the milk. The bottom line is I don’t think your dog is getting a complete and balanced diet (especially when you say he likes people food better than any dog food).

Since he has perhaps become a picky eater but you enjoy providing “people food” for him, you sound like excellent candidates for home cooking. However, that’s expensive, time-consuming and recipes are often hard for owners to stick with. I have a better suggestion for you! First, cut back on the milk. Treats and table scraps should not make up more than about 25% of the diet or they will unbalance it and add too many calories, so give him no more than one cup of milk per day as a special snack. Then, provide him with human grade food that you’ll feel good feeding and he’ll feel good eating: Proportions.

A new concept in feeding dogs, it includes hand-carved chicken breast in pumpkin stew in one pouch with dehydrated fruits and vegetables in another pouch. Most owners mix it with PortionPaks of high quality dry food but either way, it’s complete and balanced, wholesome nutrition for your dog.

Dear LS,

What an interesting question! Depending on the quality of kibble you buy, attempting to prolong the shelf life of a dog food that may have already lost much of its nutrients in production then had them sprayed back on at the end is a questionable practice. Also consider that many brands of dry dog food sit on grocery shelves for months after they are manufactured and before they are purchased.

Freezing a fresh ingredient such as meat or vegetables in one thing. Freeze DRYING is yet another. The drawbacks of freeze-drying are that it can be expensive and hard to find but there are lots of pros such as long shelf life, easy storage (because the water has been removed), lack of spoilage, etc.

But . . . that’s freeze-DRYING and you asked me about freezing. In all honesty, I have not been able to find out much scientific data on freezing dry dog food. Common sense tells me freezing commercial kibble might not be a great idea. Most people nowadays are attempting to feed their pets (and themselves) the freshest ingredients possible for maximum benefit from food. So my advice is: while it’s fine to freeze a fresh ingredient for use a reasonable time later avoid freezing a heavily processed, finished product like dry dog food that may already be near the end of its “best by” date.

Dear JB,

I thought this question was going to be an easy one but then I searched the internet to get a feel for the topic and wow, there are lots of different opinions out there. Here are the facts as set forth by the NRC Nutrient Requirement of Dogs and Cats (the “bible” of feeding pets):

The discovery of biotin as an essential nutrient for animals was intimately linked with the demonstration that certain food extracts were able to reverse a condition produced by the feeding of raw egg white. Egg white contains a glycoprotein avidin that very tightly binds biotin, is resistant to intestinal proteolysis, and is biologically inactive. One molecule of avidin binds four molecules of biotin, and even heat treatment releases only 0-10% of the bound biotin. Spontaneous biotin deficiencies rarely occur in dog and cats in the absence of a diet containing raw egg white.

What this tells me is that feeding raw eggs (or at least raw egg whites) is NOT a good thing for dogs. In fact, feeding raw eggs could cause the very thing you’re trying to prevent by binding an essential nutrient (biotin) that dogs need for healthy skin and coat.

So my advice is to steer away from eggs and towards products that contain ingredients proven to support resilient skin and shiny coats such as fatty acids, gelatin (a source of protein), and biotin, a vitamin necessary for protein production. Take a look at our new SmartCanine Skin & Coat, which offers a correct balance of Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids from a blend of fish oil, flax seed, olive oil and rice bran.

Of course, make sure you’re feeding your dog a high-quality, complete and balanced diet appropriate for his lifestage. Then include regular grooming and not too much bathing so you don’t strip his coat of healthy and protective oils. With attention like this to the inside and outside of your dog, he’ll be slick and shiny in no time!

Dear KM,

You don’t say how old your puppy is, but if you’re beginning to think about switching her over to adult food she’s probably close to 12 months old. That means she’s already done most of her growing and less at risk for developmental orthopedic diseases (DOD) like hip dysplasia. So I think you’re fine to gradually transition her to LiveSmart Chicken and Brown Rice Adult over the usual two-week period or so.

Before today, I wouldn’t even have mentioned DOD in a breed like a bulldog because I don’t think of them as a large or giant breed dog prone to growth disorders. The classic definition of a large-breed dog is one whose mature body weight exceeds 50lbs. American Bulldogs are right on the cusp of that so they should be okay, right?

Unfortunately, I did some digging and found some shocking statistics at www.offa.org, the website of the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, a not-for-profit dedicated to reducing genetic disease in dogs and cats. According to the OFA, who has maintained a database of test results for 40 years, the American Bulldog ranks #9 for elbow dysplasia and #16 for hip dysplasia (additional genetic diseases of the bulldog involve the spine and trachea). While the roles that genetics, nutrition, exercise and other factors play in developmental orthopedic disease are still unclear, a conservative diet is probably the smart way to go in your dog.

A conservative diet is one that doesn’t overdo the energy, calcium and Vitamin D. It’s also one that is not fed free-choice or time-limited. To quote from the “Nutritional Risk to Large-Breed Dogs” chapter in the November 2006 issue of Veterinary Clinics of North America—Small Animal Practice:

“Quantities of food offered should be consistently measured, divided, and offered at multiple feeding times.”

You may already be purchasing your food in PortionPaks, our unique feeding system. If not, I recommend you make the switch from bags to PortionPaks to protect her from overeating, which can lead to growth disorders, obesity, bloat and other health problems.

Dear ML,

You’re right on both counts: that fruits and vegetables have health benefits to pets but that not every fruit and vegetable is safe to feed your pet. For example, garlic, onions and grapes have all been shown to be toxic to dogs. On the other hand, vegetables such as carrots, peas and pumpkin are wonderful additions to dry dog food diet as are fruits like apples, blueberries and bananas. Not only are they packed with vitamins and minerals, they also contain fiber, antioxidants and other beneficial agents.

If you wish to introduce fruits and vegetables to your dog, do so gradually and in moderation. Add just one to two new items each week and avoid unbalancing the diet by limiting fruits and veggies to 10 – 20 % of the total diet. Another suggestion is to lightly cook the vegetables, which helps release certain nutrients. Finally, visit www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/ to make sure everything you’re offering to your dog is safe.

SmartPak is a firm believer in the health benefits of fruits and vegetables to dogs, and has included a wide variety of both in its supplements as well as its food. SmartCanine Vite is a nutritional supplement that contains a tasty blend of fruits and vegetables along with vitamins, minerals, amino acids, essential fatty acids and digestive support. It’s designed to complement heavily processed commercial kibble.

Either way you choose to add fruits and vegetables to your dog’s diet—by home cooking them yourself or through the product mentioned above—you’ll be providing him with a healthier diet that also tastes great!

Dear JC,

The average length of pregnancy in dogs is 63 days or about 9 weeks. During the first six weeks of pregnancy, experts recommend continuing to feed her usual high-quality maintenance diet. By high-quality, I mean a meat-based commercial kibble for adult dogs or a home cooked diet that is complete and balanced. While a multi-vitamin/mineral supplement may not be necessary if she’s fed a premium diet, a small amount of fresh fruits and lightly cooked vegetables can be a healthy addition to any dogs’ diet. Omega 3 fatty acids from fish oil  provide additional health benefits.

The pups grow the most during the last trimester, or three weeks, of pregnancy, so that’s when your dog will need extra calories, protein and minerals, like calcium. Gradually increase her daily food intake so that by her due date, she’s eating three times the amount she was before pregnancy. By increasing the amount of food she eats each day, she’ll not only be getting additional calories, she’ll also be taking in the additional protein, calcium and other nutrients the pups need to develop properly.

If you find that your dog simply can’t eat this much food, she’s losing weight, or you’re concerned that she won’t be able to keep up with the pups’ demand for milk, gradually switch her over to a food specially made for the pregnancy/lactation lifestage. Generally the same as puppy formula, this food concentrates calories, protein and calcium so your dog doesn’t have to eat as much to get the same nutrition.